Lawn Fertilizers – Types and Uses

If you are not happy with your lawn—maybe you have bare patches—your grass is too thin—or you would like to make it greener – try fertilizing. Using fertilizer can address these issues. So you head off to get some fertilizer and then you realize that there are different types: dry fertilizers that are powdery or granular, synthetic fertilizers, liquid fertilizers, and natural, organic fertilizers.

The process of how fertilizers work is a topic for a future article. But the bottom line is that, for plants and grass to grow and thrive, they need certain nutrients such as phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium. These are found in fertilizers. Here we describe the four basic types of fertilizing products.

Dry fertilizers tend to be a bit easier to use—you just use your gloved hands or a spreader to distribute the particles around your lawn. You will find 20 pound bags and sometimes 50 pound bags—read the bag to see how much fertilizer is needed for your size lawn. You may not need to treat the entire lawn if you just want to apply fertilizer to the thinner spots. You will have a choice between time-release fertilizer that slowly gets absorbed or the fast release type that leads to quicker results. The fast release variety needs more watering and more applications per year than the slow release type. Basically fast release is for lawns in dire need of help or when you are quickly wanting improvements – say, for an Open House or real estate sale.

Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured out of chemical compounds and are quick release, quick to take effect. There is a concern that because these products are not natural they provide no nutrients to the soil and possibly could be damaging to the soil. They do work but the result is usually temporary and so more frequent applications are required. Be careful not to over apply as you could actually burn your grass.

Are you that person that loves to stand out on your lawn with a watering hose in your hand? Then you might like applying liquid fertilizers. You attach your hose to the fertilizer jug and so you are spraying your lawn with a mixture of water and concentrated fertilizer. This provides for easy application but be careful to spread the mixture evenly. With liquid fertilizer, your lawn absorbs the nutrients quickly. Another benefit is that it also kills weeds.

More and more, people are choosing natural products. Organic fertilizers are made entirely from once- living elements with no man-made ingredients. You apply them using a spreader or just your hands and a rake. They usually break down slowly. They can be a little harder to apply in an even manner and may have an unpleasant smell. Do some research, ask your landscaper about the differences in these varieties and if you choose organic, your landscaping company can recommend one.

Your landscaper can also tell you which type of fertilizer works best in your geographic area and with your specific type of soil. Certain soils are more absorbent and fertilizer-friendly than others. Technology has definitely improved the quality of fertilizer products and if you enjoy your lawn, it makes sense to feed it and keep it healthy.

 

Quick tip: Make sure you’re aware of the laws surrounding the spread of fertilizer on your property. There may be limitations for both homeowners and professionals. In the state of NJ this is the case. In fact, professional landscapers must be trained and receive a special certification in order to do so. We’re proud to share that one of our managers has recently become one of the 1st in NJ to receive this Certification. You can go to http://salem.rutgers.edu/nre/ppt/2011-mangiafico-new-jersey-turfgrass-fertilizer-law-scripted.pdf for more information about this recently passed legislation.

 

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Trees of the Northeast – the Deciduous Forest

The Northeastern Deciduous forests are an ideal environment for many mammals, birds, amphibians, reptiles, and invertebrates. But what about the trees where many of these creatures make their home? There is a vast variety of trees that grow in the Northeastern Deciduous forests. The following are some fascinating examples of trees that show an awe-inspiring aspect of America’s ecosystem.

Norway Spruce

This tree can grow 115 to 200 feet tall and grows fast when it is young. The Norway Spruce can grow up to one meter per year for the first 25 years under good conditions. While this tree can tolerate acidic soils, it does not do well in dry earth. In fact, from the late 1920s to 1960s, the Norway Spruce was planted on mine spoils in order to create an ideal growing environment. This spruce is an evergreen coniferous, meaning that it will not lose its entire needle-like leaves within a season. Even though people believe that an evergreen never loses its leaves, in reality it is shedding in a gradual manner throughout the year. Although this is a tree native to Europe, it is widely planted in the American Northeastern and Pacific regions as a popular ornamental tree.

Northern White Cedar

This is another evergreen coniferous, but is a much smaller tree than the Norway Spruce. The White Cedar grows between 30 to 60 feet tall with scale-like leaves. This tree prefers wet soils, such as coniferous swamps. The Northern White Cedar goes by many names due to its widespread growth, such as Yellow Cedar, Thuja occidentalis, Atlantic White Cedar, Cedrus Lycea, False White Cedar, Hackmatack, and Lebensbaum. The alias “Tree of Life” was also given to the Northern White Cedar for the medicinal qualities of its sap, bark, and twigs.

 

Northern Red Oak

An oak tree is known for its beautiful leaves, their unique shape, and its production of acorns. Sometimes the Northern Red Oak is simply called the “Red Oak,” by default, but one should differentiate from the Southern Red Oak. This tree can grow between 90 to 140 feet tall, and is known for living an exceptionally long time – up to five hundred years. The Red Oak’s most defining feature is its noticeable bark ridges with shiny stripes, and its dark red to dark brown hue. The leaves turn to lovely colors in the fall.

 

American Elm

A native to the American Northeast, the American Elm is the largest and most common elm tree. It can reach 100 feet in height. However, the American Elm is also susceptible to Dutch Elm disease, which is carried by adult Elm Leaf Beetle. This tree is also hermaphroditic, meaning that it can self-pollinate to produce small, purple brown flowers that bloom in early spring before the leaves emerge.

 

Striped Maple

Unlike the previous trees described, the Striped Maple is a shorter tree that only grows 16 to 30 feet and is a nice decorative choice for your lawn. The Striped Maple tends to grow in mountainous and higher elevated regions. This tree grows well even with shade, and will grow much like a shrub until it has space to sprout to its full height. A young Striped Maple will have striped green and white bark, which will become brown as it matures.

 

 

Visiting a wildlife park or nature preserve is a great way to experience America’s Northeastern Deciduous forests. The Appalachian National Scenic Trail is an enormous trail that spans 14 states on the eastern border. The trail stretches from Maine’s Mount Katahdin to Georgia’s Springer Mountain, which displays an even greater diversity in deciduous forest trees. These magnificent trees are a testament to the resiliency of plant life, in an age-old cycle that will hopefully last as long as the earth.

 

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Best Plants for the Northeast

Taking care of a garden can be a lot of hard work! The Northeast weather can take a toll on your plants and shrubs – especially if you’ve made the wrong selection of plants for this climate. Fortunately, there are plants that require low maintenance that will make your yard beautiful without a lot of time and energy on your part.

Astilbe

This tough perennial is known for its large, fern-like look and feathery texture. They can come in pink, red, white, and lavender shades and bloom once summer begins. This plant will need shade and wet soil for ideal growing conditions. Due to its need for damp soil, it is a popular plant to grow near ponds or in low-lying areas of your yard.

Carolina Lupines

These native wildflowers grow best in complete sunlight with drained soil. If Caroline Lupines are grown without proper sun, they will grow with a bend that leans towards the light. Lupines can be nearly drought resistant if they are given enough water before they flower. Due to its bright shade, these flowers look best in the middle of the border with a dark background. Lupines are a great robust plant that will add a vibrant hue to any garden and don’t need much nurturing.

Eastern Bluestar

Do you wish that more butterflies visited your garden? The Eastern Bluestar is an attractive, star-shaped flower that is popular with migrating butterflies. The Bluestar needs full and drained soil for proper growth. Another neat aspect is its changing color with the seasons. These flowers are blue in spring, and will transform into a pleasant yellow color for fall.

Maidenhair Fern

 

This fern may be slow to grow, but the graceful appearance theyproduce is worth it. The fronds have a dainty exterior that resembles lace when clumped together. Maidenhair ferns may be hardy, but will also need shade and moist soil, with a necessity for humid conditions.

 

Saponaria

These small pink, violet, and white flowers, also known as Saponaria, look excellent in groups. The best part is that they are pretty and easy to grow! Soapworts will need full sunlight and drained soil. If you are a beginner gardener, soapworts are a great “starter plant” for you!

Uvularia

 

 

 

Also known as Bellworts, Bellfowers or Merrybells, this plant is distinctive for its downward hanging flower. Uvularia are easy to grow and add a charming aesthetic to any garden. This plant will require well-drained soil and shade. It is recommended to plant these in groups for the best visual appeal.

 

These large, white flowers will make a beautiful addition to any garden. These can be grown with partly sunny exposure with well-drained soil. The lowest leaves that grow on the stem are long leaf-stems that tend to either be upright and springy, or lying flat close to the ground. Anemones are great for covering a large space due to their quick growth.

 

Wild Anemone

 

Anyone, no matter the experience, can enjoy growing their own garden. The most important thing for any gardener/homeowner is to know what plants will do best in their yards. These plants are all “Jersey-friendly”! Have fun with your landscaping, and happy gardening!

 

 

 

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Ground Cover – Types and Uses

Pam Consalvo Long, Jessica LaGaylia, High Tech Landscapes, Inc. liked this post

The Wikipedia definition of Ground Cover is:

Groundcover refers to any plant that grows over an area of ground, used to provide protection from erosion and drought, and to improve its aesthetic appearance (by concealing bare earth).

Typically, ground cover is grass. But the term can be used for anything that lies on top of the soil and prevents weed growth and erosion.  There may be areas of your garden where you need coverage but would like to use something other than grass. Here we will give you some ideas.

Many people choose mulch, with good reason. It is inexpensive and fairly long-lasting, especially the treated red mulch.  Mulch made from wood (usually cypress) will need replaced once or twice per year; rubber mulch can last for several years.

But let’s talk about some ground cover that is more visually appealing and has a bit more character than plain old mulch or turfgrass. There are many different types of vines that work well as ground covers with minimal maintenance and a nice green look. One of these is called Vinca Major, pictured here.  Another very pretty flowering vine that gives good coverage especially on a slope is called Creeping Phlox.

 

 

 

 

 

Another less common ground cover that can have a neat look and might be just right for your garden or yard is moss. There are many different types of mosses and you have to do some research to find out which will thrive with your climate and weather conditions. Some mosses require more sun, shade, or hydration than others. This picture below shows Irish Moss also called Scotch Moss. As you see it works really well with these flagstones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can also consider using shrubs for ground cover. Some of them are low-lying, spreading well to cover the ground and requiring low maintenance. There are a few dozen types of shrubs that work well as ground cover. Flowering Quince and Dwarf Honeysuckle are just a couple of examples. The honeysuckle is pictured below.

 

 

 

 

 

Other types of attractive ground cover include ornamental grasses and herbaceous plants.  When choosing ground cover you have to consider the amount of sun, shade and hydration that the area will receive and the level of maintenance that you are able to provide. If you would like help choosing good ground cover for your home, speak to your landscaping professional. They can make knowledgeable recommendations based on your particular property.

 

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Holiday Decorating to Ring in the New Year

Let’s face it—holiday decorating can be fun—or it can be stressful. Many times we avoid putting up our outdoor lights and decorations until the last minute, and the reason is that we consider it a pain in the butt. Or maybe we are just too busy. Our suggestion this year: decorate lightly but tastefully for curb appeal that lasts into the New Year.

If you put up a giant inflatable Santa, pretty much by December 27th it is out of date. Yet you sort of feel like you spent the time putting it up and you’d like people to enjoy your decorations and your work for a bit longer, so there you are plugging it in 10 days after Christmas, with your spouse shaking his or her head. If you use seasonal decorations that are less specific, your holiday cheer can bring smiles to passersby for weeks to come.

Put up only white lights or white with just one other color. White and gold for example are winter colors and still appropriate during January.  Hang a large white wreath on the garage door or tack it to a front yard tree and put no holiday decorations on it, or stick to just blue or just gold ribbon or bulbs.  This will be pretty and festive but also says “happy new year”.

You don’t need to spend hours and having a lot of lights. Just two or three strings that you place with care, taking your time to make them follow the line or shape that you want them to, will look great without overkill. A single battery-operated or plug-in candle in every window or every other window is also very warm and holiday-ish, but can certainly illuminate the night through the end of January. Maybe just hang some snowflakes from one tree, and leave it at that.

Not everybody expects to see lawn ornaments, blinking lights of every color, or giant snow globes in your yard. Sometimes it is the more simply decorated lawns that make us slow down our cars and say, “Wow, doesn’t that look nice”? Even if you put only a nativity scene or Star of David on the front lawn with nothing else, it still shows that you’re celebrating a holiday and you appreciate the season.

Another way to make it more fun to decorate is to get your children involved. Even those hard to please teenagers will appreciate being given the responsibility of perfectly hanging their string of lights or being asked for their ideas. If you have more than one child, give each of them an area or an item to decorate. Then your lawn will reflect your family’s style and creativity.

Decorating the front of your home and your front lawn should not be looked at as a chore to be dreaded. It should be a family affair that brings you closer and shows the world that you not only celebrate the season, you celebrate life.

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Protecting Plants and Shrubs During Winter

Another helpful How-To article from your friends at High Tech Landscapes

The winter season can be a challenge for many new and experienced gardeners. Both tender and young, hearty plants are at risk to not make it until the spring season. Here are steps you can take to protect your plants and shrubs from winter’s worst.

Apply Mulch

Add mulch, (or a mixture consisting of straw, leaves and bark). The layer of mulch should be about two inches thick. This will help the plant stay insulated and retain water. Surprisingly, it may not be the cold that will affect the plant, but the freeze and thaw cycle. Mulch will keep the plant from experiencing extreme temperature swings. This application can also help keep the soil warm and avoid becoming frozen. When soil is frozen, it can prevent water from reaching to the plant roots.

Come spring, you will remove this mulch and replace with new. However, not all plants will benefit from a thick layer of mulch. For example, roses and strawberries can suffer from being “overwintered” by being completely covered with mulch. When in doubt, always check with your landscaping professional about specific plants for reference.

 

Cover with Burlap

Cover plants with burlap during the night to protect them from the winter’s dropping temperatures. You must use a fabric that breathes so that it will not block air circulation for your plants. Ideally, you should try to have the burlap not directly touch the plant. This can be done by building a frame around the plant and placing the burlap on top. You might have to place stones or some kind of weight on the base of the burlap to avoid it blowing off on windy days.

For newly planted conifers (cone bearing plants) or broad-leaved evergreens, a simple cocoon-like wrap of burlap will be sufficient. The burlap should be long enough to wrap around the plant a few times. Next, you must drape the burlap to one side of the plant, and then wrap it loosely like rolling up a rug. For a more durable structure, you can drive a few wooden stakes into the ground around the plant. Then wrap the burlap around the stakes, and staple into place.

 

Use Cloches

For perennials (plants that may live for more than two years) you need to protect the crown so that it can grow again in the spring. A cloche is a bell shaped piece of glass that you cover over the plant and its leaves by tucking them in. The leaves will die when you do this, but the plant will be ready to grow again when winter passes.

 

Make a Bubble Wrap Enclosure

Bubble wrap is not only for delivering packages. Making your own bubble wrap enclosure should be used for plants that are larger than two feet. Set up four stakes around the plant and wind bubble wrap around the stakes, making sure that there is an inch of bubble wrap above the ground. Then wrap a burlap skirt around the bottom to keep out the wind while allowing air circulation. The roof should be made with a sheet of plastic that covers the top, and is held together with rafters tied to the four wall stakes.

These helpful tips will improve your plant’s chances for survival. Every garden and location is unique. Keep in mind that even seasoned gardeners tend to lose a few plants during the winter, but would have lost much more if they had not developed a method for protecting their plants. Welcome every winter as a way to learn more about your garden, and discover how you can make it stronger with every season.

 

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Core Aeration and Turf Restoration

When is the best time for lawn maintenance? While you might think that spring is great for restoring the backyard, you should be getting it done now. The fall season has the most ideal climate for a new healthy lawn. No matter how often you water or fertilize your grass, you will have to deal with a buildup in thatch. An effective technique that can break up thatch is “core aeration”.

Your lawn will eventually be compromised, unable to grow as best as it can, unless you take proper care. Thatch is a combination of dead and living grass roots that could clog up the space between the top grass and the soil. All healthy turfs will have some kind of thatch build-up, which will keep the newer grass roots resilient from heavy traffic. But too much thatch can be detrimental. If the grass roots have a difficult time passing through the thatch in order to reach the soil, less nutrition is spread to the top layer of your lawn.

Thatch can restrict the movement of air, water, and fertilization when it’s more than one inch thick. There is an effective solution. Core aeration is a process that will get rid of the excess thatch so that the grass roots can reach deeper into the soil. Everyone can check their lawn for thatch by removing a one foot square of grass that is at least six inches deep (or ask your lawn company/landscaper to do so). If the grass roots only extend for one to two inches, the lawn could benefit from core aeration.

In order to remove the thatch, core aeration requires small soil plugs or “cores” to be taken out of the lawn. This can be done by a hand aerator or mechanically by a core aerator. The machine has hollow spoons that are mounted on a disk. This pulls out a core of soil that’s one half inch to a three quarters of an inch. Each core should be one to six inches deep and two to six inches apart. The kind of grass and climate are also factors in determining how often and when a grass should be core aerated.

You will also need to check on high-maintenance lawns more frequently because thatch will accumulate faster than if it were low-maintenance turf. The soil should be moist, but not wet for core aeration. Your lawn should be watered two days before core aeration so that the machine can have an easier time digging deep into the soil. If your area has experienced a lot of rainfall, you should make sure that the soil has dried a little bit. Overly wet soil will stick to the core aerator’s spoons and compromise productivity.

Most grass that is used in American lawns grows faster in cooler temperatures. When your lawn is filled with small holes from core aeration, you want the grass to grow fast so that it can quickly patch up. In addition to core aeration, a healthy lawn may need additional nutrients, removal of weeds, and PH level adjustment. The fall is a productive time for weed growth. Due to the coming winter, weeds will pull more nutrients into their roots from the grass blades to prepare for the colder weather. If you spray herbicide during the fall, the weeds will draw the herbicide into its own roots. This strategy will effectively kill the weeds.

With the right information and a bit of effort, anyone can have a healthy turf. Plan on devoting some time to your lawn this weekend.

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Winterizing your lawn and garden

With the winter season approaching and snowflakes soon to fall, it is a good idea to winterize your lawn and garden. This is the key to having a lush, healthy lawn come springtime. The first step is to clean up leaves and debris.  You also want to have a look around and remove any plants that are not doing well, especially in areas of thicker vegetation and planting. This will make room for new bulbs or seedlings to grow. If you have bulbs that are only 2 or 3 inches below the surface, you should plant them a bit deeper—6 or 7 inches deep is ideal for winter.

 

If you want to move any plants, now is the time to do so, before the ground hardens. You may want to bring in any fragile plants. Note that you can continue to water your grass and outdoor plants and shrubs until the temperature reaches freezing.  And you should continue to mow the lawn until the first frost. After the final mowing, be sure to rake your lawn and remove all thatch. Don’t forget to drain the gas tank of your mower before putting it away for the season.

 

You may want to aerate your garden now, which helps with compaction, or compressed grasses and soil. The compression limits oxygen getting to the roots, so aeration is the solution (this is what golf courses do to their grass).

 

Now is also the time to pull out weeds. If you use weed control products, do so carefully because you do not want to destroy plants and grasses that are nearby. If you have questions or need help selecting products, don’t hesitate to contact us.  As an extra step to protect your lawn from extreme cold, you can apply potassium (just ask – we are happy to do this for you.)  You can also use a winterizing fertilizer, which comes in varieties with or without weed control.

 

To protect the root systems of your bulbs, rose bushes, trees and other shrubs, you should apply a fresh layer of mulch. It should be several inches thick and can even cover smaller plants. Give your trees and bushes a final pruning too, as they won’t be trimmed again until the spring.

 

Another ‘To Do’ before winter sets in is to take care of dead patches. If you ignore a dead patch until spring, you could find that it got larger. So before the snow covers the ground, prepare the area using a hand rake or grass stitcher, then sew in a mix of winter and summer seeds. Believe it or not, the winter grasses will germinate. Your bare patch won’t be bare when spring comes.

 

More tips on winterizing your lawn and winter maintenance for your garden can be obtained by speaking to a friendly representative at High Tech Landscapes. Call or come see us any time. 800 406 6420

 

 

 

 

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Feeling Stressed? Create a Zen Garden

Do you find yourself at the beach making sand castles and drawing designs in the sand? Then creating a Zen Garden just might be right for you.

Built long ago to help Zen Monks reach a state of enlightenment, rock gardens were created by the careful placement of natural elements such as sand and stones to represent mountains and water. These elements are said to allow a person to achieve a deeper state of meditation in order to forget about life’s stress and strains.

Traditional Japanese gardens use all natural materials and have an emphasis on harmony and relaxation. Zen gardens often incorporate straight lines, swirls, stones, wood, and other non-living components to help in meditation. The gardens can also incorporate water if a water fountain or pond is desired.

The underlying philosophy of Japanese gardens is a combination of Shintoism and Buddhism which reveres life and explores the laws of nature.

Getting started is as simple as pouring gravel over the garden area and large stones are added. The gardener, using a rake, maps out designs in the gravel first by raking back and forth along the length of the garden and then by producing swirls that dance around the stones and around each other. The stones are meant to represent mountains and the swirls are meant to represent water. Any kind and color of stones and gravel can be used, but the stones are usually dark and the gravel usually white.

You can choose stones of different colors or the same color. Choose as many stones as you like but remember not to choose too many. The amount is up to you. Lay the stones where you want in the garden and rake patterns around them. You can change the pattern as often as you like.

For a small rock garden, you should map out the area and purchase the stones first. You will not need very large rocks for the Zen garden if it is going to be small. Use bricks, stones or metal flower bed border to edge your garden. Fill the garden with sand, pebbles or gravel.

Other ideas for your rock garden might be to create patterns in the stones using different colored rocks. For example, you might create Chinese or Japanese characters out of black rock in a white rock bed. You could create diminishing rings of pebbles around your larger stones or rings of colored stones that fade gradually to the color of the gravel. The possibilities are endless.

And finally to pull it all together, consider lining the outer perimeter with different hearty grasses and low ground covering succulents. The Yin and the Yang will be no further than you back door!

-Some content contributions for this article came from the Yahoo’s Community Network- Amber S.

 

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What is a Shakespeare Garden?

Shakespeare gardens are found throughout the United states and of course across the pond in Britain. The most famous of these lush gardens in right here in our backyard in Central Park located at West Side and 79th street.

In 1916 the name of the park changed from Garden of the Heart to the Shakespeare Gardens as this marked the 300th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s death. The entire grounds are plated with plants and flowers that are mentioned in all of Shakespeare’s plays. The Garden covers four acres of plants that change according to season. Included among these are plants such as rosemary and pansies, alluded to by Ophelia from the play, Hamlet as well as a plant called thistle, mentioned in the play Much to do about nothing. There is a mulberry tree that is said to have been grown from a section of a tree planted by Shakespeare himself in 1602.

There are more than 200 varieties of planting in the Gardens.  Many are low maintenance and would thrive in your own backyard.

Poppy and Mandrake: The poppy has been seen as both a symbol for death (for its blood red color) and sleep (in reference to the opium it contains) in literature. Mandragora, belongs to the nightshades family and possesses a long history in connection with the Hebrew Bible, magic, spells, and witchcraft. In Cleopatra and Antony, Shakespeare makes mention of the plant as an ingredient in a drink that puts people to sleep. You will also find a wide array of other flowers such as Daisies, Violets, and a wide variety of Roses. However, no reputable Shakespearean Garden would be complete without Lilies.  Rows and rows of lilies fill the air with a wonderful smell and the clean, crisp architecture of the long stems break up the low growing flowering plants as well.

The Gardens are relaxing and not heavily traveled by the general public. It makes for a wonderful stroll and again, a great picture gallery for your personal gardening inspirations for your own home.  Get outdoors, experience the beautiful sights and sounds of our World Famous National Parks and call High Tech Landscapes when you’re ready to piece all of the great ideas together.  Making sense of what to put together to help growth and maximize long lasting beauty, takes a professional eye and many years of experience.

In the words of William Shakespeare, What’s in a name? that which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet.

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